Namibia • Skeleton Coast • Self-Drive
Skeleton Coast Self-Drive: Cape Cross, Shipwrecks & More
Few road trips feel as otherworldly as a Skeleton Coast self-drive. Leaving Swakopmund, the road runs north between the Atlantic and the desert, past seal colonies, fishing camps and rusting shipwrecks, into the Skeleton Coast National Park. Then it turns inland through stark desert towards Damaraland. Here's how to plan it.
The drive at a glance
- Start: Swakopmund
- Highlights: the Zeila wreck, Cape Cross seals, the Ugab Gate, Torra Bay and Terrace Bay
- Exit: through the Springbokwasser Gate into Damaraland
- Vehicle: a 4x4 or high-clearance vehicle is recommended for the gravel and salt roads
- Time: one long day, or two days with a night at Terrace Bay
Your route, stop by stop
Start
Swakopmund
Fill up with fuel, buy supplies and check road conditions. The town's German-colonial architecture, seafood and adventure activities make it worth a night or two before you leave.
About 1 hour north
The Zeila shipwreck
Just south of Henties Bay, the wreck of the Zeila, a fishing trawler that ran aground in 2008, sits a short distance offshore, often with cormorants perched on it. Wrecks break up over time, so what you see will change.
About 2 hours north
Cape Cross Seal Reserve
Walk along the boardwalk among one of the world's largest Cape fur seal colonies. Expect noise, activity and a powerful smell! Pups are born from about late November. Here you'll also find a replica of the stone cross the Portuguese navigator Diogo Cão placed in 1486.
Entering the park
The Ugab Gate
The Skeleton Coast National Park begins at the Ugab River, where the gate is marked by its famous skull-and-crossbones signs. You'll receive a permit here. Gates have set opening times, and you must reach the exit gate before it closes, so check the latest times before you set off.
Inside the park
Torra Bay and Terrace Bay
Torra Bay is a seasonal campsite, usually open only over the December–January holidays, popular with anglers. Terrace Bay, further north, has a small resort and is the furthest point most self-drivers can go. North of Terrace Bay, the coast is a protected wilderness accessible only by fly-in.
Heading inland
The Springbokwasser Gate and Damaraland
Turn inland at the Springbokwasser Gate and drive east through dramatic desert scenery towards Palmwag and Damaraland, home to desert-adapted elephants and rhinos. Read about Namibia's desert-adapted wildlife.
Self-drive tips for the Skeleton Coast
- Fuel: fill up in Swakopmund and Henties Bay. Fuel inside the park is limited and not guaranteed.
- Salt roads: the coastal "salt roads" are smooth when dry but slippery in fog and drizzle. Drive slowly, especially in the mornings.
- Gate times: plan your day so you reach the exit gate in time. You can't overnight in the park without a booking.
- Supplies: carry plenty of water, snacks, warm clothes and a spare tyre. Phone signal is very limited.
- Stay on the road: the lichen fields and gravel plains are fragile, and tracks last for decades.
- Read our guides: Namibia Self-Drive Tips for First-Time Visitors, Is Namibia Safe for Self-Drive? and the best car for a Namibia self-drive.
Sample 3-day route
Day 1: Swakopmund to Cape Cross and on to Terrace Bay for the night.
Day 2: drive back south and inland through the Springbokwasser Gate to Damaraland.
Day 3: desert elephant tracking and rock art in Damaraland, then on to Etosha. See our Best Namibia Itineraries: 3, 5, 7 and 10 Days.
Want to see the remote north?
The wild coast north of Terrace Bay, with its roaring dunes, famous shipwrecks and desert lions, can only be reached by light aircraft. Combine your self-drive with a short fly-in to Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp. See our Skeleton Coast Safari Guide.
The fog parts, the road stretches into nothing and the only sound is the Atlantic breaking on an empty beach. On the Skeleton Coast, the journey itself is the destination.
Frequently asked questions
Can you drive the Skeleton Coast yourself?
Yes. You can self-drive from Swakopmund via Cape Cross into the southern Skeleton Coast National Park through the Ugab Gate, as far as Terrace Bay. The northern section is only accessible by fly-in.
Do I need a permit for the Skeleton Coast National Park?
Yes. Permits are issued at the Ugab and Springbokwasser gates. Gates have set opening times, so check them before you travel.
Do I need a 4x4 for the Skeleton Coast?
A 4x4 or high-clearance vehicle is recommended for the gravel and salt roads, especially if you continue into Damaraland.
When can you see seal pups at Cape Cross?
Seal pups are born from about late November, and the colony is busiest with young pups in December.
Where can I stay on a Skeleton Coast self-drive?
Swakopmund and Henties Bay have plenty of options. Inside the park, Terrace Bay has a small resort, and Torra Bay campsite is usually open only over the December-January holidays.
Plan your Skeleton Coast road trip
We'll arrange your 4x4, permits and stays from Swakopmund to Damaraland and Etosha.
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